In today’s landscape, collaborations between watch brands and artists are becoming increasingly ubiquitous. The partnership between ZENITH and Felipe Pantone is a remarkable exploration that delves into the essence of time, light, and speed—a dialogue that invites profound reflection.
A Bold Artistic Statement
In early 2020, a vibrant, oversized canvas took center stage on the facade of ZENITH’s headquarters in Le Locle. This historic watchmaker, steeped in over a century of tradition, was dramatically transformed into a digital art projection, seemingly imported from the fifth dimension. As ZENITH approaches its 160th anniversary, inheriting the lore of Swiss watchmaking, one might wonder if such avant-garde expressions risk leaving observers bewildered.
This was the inaugural collaboration between Pantone and ZENITH, symbolized by the immense art installation that adorned the brand’s storied exterior. Avant-garde, in this sense, is not mere novelty; it embodies a creative approach that challenges contemporary norms and reimagines familiar perceptions. The essence lies in pushing boundaries, inviting us to question our understanding of both time and artistry.
The Heart of Innovation
Located in Le Locle, ZENITH has carved out its legacy by integrating various watchmaking crafts under one roof—an early pioneer in vertical integration. Unlike many Swiss brands that relied on separate workshops for their craftsmanship, ZENITH’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, revolutionized production conditions by centralizing operations. This not only elevated efficiency in developing and improving movement structures but also facilitated immediate testing and adjustment of components. This forward-thinking philosophy from 160 years ago was groundbreaking.
From its inception, ZENITH has maintained a forward-looking vision, garnering numerous patents and accolades, including the wristwatch patent in 1909 and the pioneering automatic chronograph mechanism, El Primero, introduced in 1969. For more than a century, ZENITH has been at the pinnacle of horological innovation.
The El Primero Legacy
The El Primero movement was launched in 1962 to celebrate the brand’s centenary and has since become an iconic symbol of precision. This meticulously developed mechanism, capable of a breathtaking frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, enables time measurement to the nearest tenth of a second. El Primero stands not only as a technical marvel, but also as a testament to ZENITH’s relentless pursuit of excellence in watchmaking.
In 1969, ZENITH unveiled the culmination of five years of research: the revolutionary El Primero, the world’s first fully integrated automatic chronograph. This remarkable mechanism showcased ZENITH’s commitment to innovative design and craftsmanship, demonstrated further when it survived rigorous tests aboard a Boeing 707, reaffirming the brand’s reputation for reliability.
Contemporary Collaborations
Fast forward to the present, this rich legacy continues to inspire new creative ventures. The partnership with Felipe Pantone highlights a shared fascination with light and time—core elements that reflect the complexities of contemporary existence. Since their first collaboration in early 2020, where Pantone visually transformed ZENITH’s factory walls, the duo has continued to innovate.
In 2021, they launched the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, featuring the El Primero 9004 movement. With a jaw-dropping aesthetic that includes laser-like color arrangements and a 1/100th of a second chronograph function, this watch blurred the lines between artistry and horological precision.
The Philosophy of Time
Pantone’s design philosophy, marked by vibrant color and digital elements, poses a profound question about the nature of time. The unique design folly in the DEFY 21, featuring digitally distorted hands, challenges traditional perceptions—almost asking, “Is our experience of time truly accurate?” This playful yet provocative element stirs deep contemplations about the very fabric of reality in our digital age.
Their latest collaboration, the DEFY Skyline Felipe Pantone tourbillon watch, showcases another unique design element, the lightning-shaped tourbillon frame. Crafted with meticulous attention, the 3D PVD technology adds a rainbow gradient effect that echoes Pantone’s signature style and brings a fresh vibrancy to the sophisticated mechanics of ZENITH.
A Visual Symphony
The mesmerizing dial of the DEFY Skyline, engraved with concentric circles reminiscent of the moiré effect, dynamically interacts with the movement of the tourbillon. This juxtaposition of stability and unpredictability creates a dialogue about our subjective experience of time, weaving a narrative of order and chaos, known and unknown.
Ships equipped with Pantone timepieces have rapidly become sought-after treasures in collectors’ circles—each limited release vanishing swiftly from the market. Their collaboration extends to rare pieces like the DEFY Double Tourbillon for Only Watch and the unique DEFY Skyline Tourbillon, auctioned to support Swiss art initiatives. These creations transcend mere functionality to become poignant manifestations of Pantone’s artistic vision, challenging the conventional bounds of watch design.
Conclusion: Time Reimagined
The partnership between ZENITH and Felipe Pantone stands as a bold declaration of the versatility of timepieces as vehicles for artistic expression. Together, they invite us not just to wear time, but to engage thoughtfully with its essence. As they continue to push the boundaries of design and technology, they remind us that time—a concept so foundational—remains endlessly rich for exploration.
