Few watches enjoy a mythology as powerful—or as commercially successful—as the Omega Speedmaster. Long celebrated as “the Moonwatch,” it is widely believed to be the first watch worn on the Moon, a tool-watch hero of NASA’s Apollo missions, and a symbol of precision under pressure. But as newly uncovered archival documents and former NASA accounts begin to surface in 2025, this seemingly bulletproof legend is now under closer scrutiny.
Could it be that Omega, rather than merely inheriting the legacy of space exploration, shaped it through exceptional marketing? Was the Speedmaster’s Moonwatch title the result of a controlled narrative more than pure performance? And what does this mean for the collectors seeking truth—rather than myth—in their pursuit of space-era horology?
As the curtain lifts on a lesser-known version of history, we examine the real selection process behind NASA’s space watches, how Omega engineered its brand mythology, and what collecting opportunities now emerge from the shadows of the Moon.
Newly Uncovered NASA Documents Reveal an Alternative History
The standard tale of the Speedmaster’s triumph begins in 1965, when NASA engineer James Ragan oversaw rigorous testing of chronographs to select the most suitable timepiece for manned spaceflight. Omega, the story goes, survived brutal temperature shifts, high-G impacts, and decompression chambers, emerging as the only chronograph to meet NASA’s exacting specifications. The rest is Moonwatch legend.
However, declassified NASA memos from 1963 to 1967, recently made public through a private Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) request by independent horology historian Daniel Marks, reveal nuances in that narrative. Among the surprises:
- Multiple Brands Were Used Pre-1965: Astronauts such as Wally Schirra wore privately owned watches from Breitling and Heuer on Mercury and Gemini missions before any official procurement.
- The First Watch Worn in Space Was Russian: Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin famously wore a Sturmanskie—unofficial, but chronologically first.
- NASA Preferred “Off-the-Shelf” Tools: Early on, NASA showed no brand loyalty. Documents reveal engineers sourced watches from Houston jewelers, including Omega, Rolex, Longines-Wittnauer, and even Bulova.
- Bulova Nearly Replaced Omega: In 1972, Bulova lobbied hard with U.S.-made chronometers, nearly dethroning Omega as NASA’s primary supplier.
Perhaps most striking is that nowhere in NASA’s official language does the term “Moonwatch” appear. This was not a government-approved title—it was a marketing term created by Omega post-Apollo 11 to commercialize its role. The implication: Omega didn’t just make history—it also skillfully claimed ownership of it.
How the Speedmaster Myth Was Carefully Constructed
Omega’s PR genius began in the early 1970s, as the Swiss watch industry faced pressure from the quartz revolution. Recognizing that the moon landing was a defining cultural event, Omega launched one of the most effective horological campaigns of the 20th century.
- 1970 “Flight-Qualified by NASA” Advertising Blitz: Omega printed its technical approval status on dials, boxes, and ads. This elevated a technical watch to an aspirational artifact.
- Apollo Tie-In Editions: Special edition Speedmasters began arriving with commemorative casebacks and mission patches, deepening the mythos.
- Moon Dust Marketing: A 1971 campaign showed a Speedmaster worn on the lunar surface, encased in fictional “moon dust.” The idea that your own Speedmaster shared DNA with Armstrong’s watch made for irresistible branding.
- NASA Collaborations: Omega cultivated relationships with astronauts, giving rise to endorsements, signed dials, and appearances at events.
The result? The Speedmaster became not just a tool for astronauts, but an emotional anchor for anyone dreaming of the stars.
Yet, behind the marketing magic, there were complications. For example, Buzz Aldrin’s actual Speedmaster, the first worn on the Moon (Armstrong left his in the module), went missing in transit to the Smithsonian. Some say it was stolen. Others whisper that it was “lost” to eliminate potential controversy over ownership. No one truly knows.
What remains clear is that Omega’s dominance in space lore was as much about narrative control as it was about engineering.
Collecting Opportunities Tied to the True Space Program Watches
As more facts surface about NASA’s pragmatic approach to gear sourcing, collectors are reexamining overlooked pieces that played real—but less publicized—roles in the space program. These watches are now emerging as highly collectible artifacts in their own right.
1. Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph (1971 Prototype)
Though Bulova was not selected in 1965, a prototype worn by astronaut Dave Scott on the lunar surface during Apollo 15 resurfaced at auction in 2015 and fetched $1.625 million. This watch was not officially sanctioned but was brought as a backup—yet it became the only privately owned watch worn on the Moon.
Modern reissues of the Bulova Lunar Pilot, priced under $1,000, have become sleeper hits among collectors seeking historical significance without the Omega price tag.
2. Longines-Wittnauer 235T
NASA tested this model alongside Omega, but it failed several stress tests. Still, it represents a “what might have been” moment in horological history. Prices have risen quietly over the last five years as enthusiasts dig deeper into pre-Apollo procurement history.
3. Seiko 6139 “Pogue”
Astronaut William Pogue wore this automatic chronograph during the 1973 Skylab 4 mission. Though not part of NASA’s official inventory, it marked the first automatic chronograph in space. Collectors increasingly prize this model for its pop-culture appeal and credible space legacy.
4. Speedmaster “Pre-Moon” Models (Ref. 105.003, 105.012, 145.012)
While Omega’s post-Apollo editions are heavily marketed, the “pre-Moon” references—produced before July 1969—represent the purest form of the Speedmaster’s tool-watch DNA. With cleaner dials, straight lugs, and minimal marketing interference, they are now considered more authentic by purists.
5. Russian Vostok and Sturmanskie
Though rarely mentioned in Western narratives, Soviet space watches were just as integral to human spaceflight history. Sturmanskie’s Gagarin-era reissues are quietly gaining cult status among collectors interested in space from a global perspective.
What This Means for the Modern Watch Industry
The Moonwatch myth has created a blueprint that other brands now follow—tying timepieces to heroism, exploration, and national pride. But in the age of information transparency, consumers are starting to ask tougher questions: Was this story manufactured? Who else was involved? What parts of horological history remain conveniently forgotten?
Omega, to its credit, still produces a Speedmaster that closely resembles its original. The “Hesalite” crystal versions, manually wound and equipped with the Calibre 3861, offer fidelity to NASA specs. Yet they now coexist with sapphire sandwich variants, Moonshine gold editions, Snoopy cartoons, and luxury offshoots—each version drifting a little further from the gritty tool that once strapped to a spacesuit.
Meanwhile, other brands—especially microbrands—are beginning to push back against the singular narrative. Projects like Undone’s “Space Watch Series” or collaborations between Baltic and space-themed design studios aim to broaden the conversation around what constitutes a space watch.
And with China and private companies now sending civilians into space, tomorrow’s Moonwatch may not come from Switzerland at all.
Conclusion
Did Omega steal the Moonwatch legacy? Not exactly. The Speedmaster was undeniably present at critical moments in human history. But the version of events most consumers believe—the one of exclusivity, firsts, and officialdom—has been skillfully edited, expanded, and commercialized.
Omega didn’t lie. It just told its version of the truth louder, better, and more beautifully than anyone else.
As more information comes to light, collectors now have the opportunity to rewrite the narrative, looking beyond the Speedmaster to discover the full constellation of timepieces that accompanied humanity’s journey into space.
