A Comprehensive Review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
When it comes to luxury watches, few brands carry the prestige and allure of Audemars Piguet (AP). Founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet in the Swiss Jura Mountains, Audemars Piguet quickly rose to prominence due to its uncompromising commitment to craftsmanship, innovation, and technical mastery. While the brand is known for its wide range of watches, the Royal Oak stands as its most iconic and influential creation. As an avid watch enthusiast and collector, I had the opportunity to spend several months wearing and analyzing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and in this review, I will share my experience, insights, and observations about this extraordinary timepiece.
Design: A Bold Step Forward in Luxury Sports Watches
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, made its debut in 1972 and was a revolutionary design at the time. It marked the birth of the luxury sports watch category, blending rugged durability with high-end luxury and intricate mechanical design. When the Royal Oak first hit the market, many questioned the unconventional design of the octagonal bezel, the integrated bracelet, and the exposed screws. At that time, luxury watches were largely confined to traditional dress styles, and the idea of a stainless steel luxury watch was considered sacrilegious.
Case and Bezel: Precision and Distinction
The Royal Oak I own features the classic stainless steel case that has become synonymous with the model. The 41mm size feels just right on the wrist — not too large but with enough presence to make a statement. The case is a masterpiece of design and engineering, with the octagonal bezel standing out as the signature feature. The angularity of the bezel provides the watch with an assertive look, and the eight exposed screws, which secure the bezel to the case, are integral to the watch’s unique aesthetic.
The combination of brushed and polished surfaces on the case enhances the visual appeal. The brushed surfaces on the sides of the case and bracelet give the watch a more utilitarian feel, while the polished surfaces on the bezel and links reflect light beautifully, adding a touch of refinement. The finishing is impeccable, with no visible flaws, and every edge feels smooth and meticulously crafted.
The Royal Oak’s design is not just about aesthetics; it’s about functionality too. The water resistance is 50 meters, which is decent for a luxury sports watch, though it’s not intended for deep diving. However, the primary purpose of the Royal Oak is not to serve as a dive watch but as a watch that can seamlessly transition from formal events to more casual outings — an all-around timepiece that combines form and function.
Dial: Elegance and Complexity in Detail
The dial of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is where the magic truly happens. The signature “Tapisserie” pattern is immediately recognizable, with its intricate grid design providing a sense of texture and depth. This pattern is achieved through a meticulous process of engraving, and its creation requires an exceptional level of skill. On the blue dial version I own, the pattern contrasts beautifully against the clean lines of the hour markers and the hands, which are treated with luminous coating for legibility in low light.
One of the unique features of the Royal Oak dial is the date window at 3 o’clock. It’s positioned slightly below the surface of the dial, making it less obtrusive while still maintaining functionality. The Audemars Piguet logo sits just above the 12 o’clock mark, with the brand’s name elegantly placed in a subtle yet proud position. While the dial is certainly a work of art, it is also designed with practicality in mind, with excellent legibility despite its complex look.
Movement: The Heart of the Royal Oak
Under the hood, the movement is where Audemars Piguet truly excels. The watch features the Caliber 3120, a mechanical self-winding movement that is both reliable and sophisticated. The movement is housed within the case, and when viewed through the sapphire crystal case back, it’s clear that Audemars Piguet has spared no expense in terms of quality and aesthetics.
The Caliber 3120 movement boasts a 60-hour power reserve, which is ample for a watch of this nature, allowing the Royal Oak to run smoothly even if you take it off for a few days. The movement is adorned with Côtes de Genève finishing, a signature of high-end Swiss watchmaking, which is beautifully visible through the case back. Watching the intricate components of the movement in action is a testament to the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into every Audemars Piguet timepiece.
In terms of performance, the Royal Oak’s movement is remarkably accurate, with only minor fluctuations over a period of months. The automatic winding system works seamlessly, and the movement is smooth and precise. While the power reserve is not as long as some other luxury watches in the same category, it’s more than adequate for daily wear, and the movement operates quietly and efficiently.
Wearing Experience: A Comfortable Luxury
Wearing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is an experience in itself. The watch is surprisingly comfortable given its substantial size. The integrated bracelet plays a significant role in this comfort. The links are smooth and contour naturally around the wrist, and the design of the bracelet ensures that it doesn’t dig into the skin, even when worn for extended periods. The clasp is also well-designed, with a secure folding mechanism that ensures the watch stays firmly in place.
The weight of the watch is perfectly balanced. At 41mm, it’s large enough to make a statement without feeling cumbersome. The stainless steel case adds a slight heft, giving the watch a substantial feel on the wrist, but it’s never overwhelming. One of the most impressive aspects of wearing the Royal Oak is its ability to transition seamlessly from formal to casual wear. Whether I’m wearing it with a suit for a business meeting or dressed down with a shirt and jeans, the Royal Oak always feels appropriate, effortlessly bridging the gap between classic elegance and modern flair.
Craftsmanship and Attention to Detail
Audemars Piguet has long been known for its commitment to craftsmanship, and the Royal Oak is a shining example of this dedication. The level of detail in every aspect of the watch, from the engraving on the dial to the polishing of the case, is simply astounding. Each component is meticulously crafted, and the watch as a whole exudes a sense of luxury that can only come from years of refining and perfecting the craft.
The finishing on the Royal Oak is exceptional, with every surface either brushed, polished, or treated in a way that reflects the brand’s mastery of the craft. The screw-down case back ensures that the movement is well-protected, while the sapphire crystal case back offers a glimpse into the inner workings of the timepiece.
One of the standout features of the Royal Oak is its unique ability to be both rugged and refined. It’s built to withstand everyday wear and tear, yet its intricate detailing and luxurious materials make it feel like a fine piece of jewelry. The bracelet, for example, while solid and durable, is also highly polished, making it as much a visual delight as it is a functional part of the watch.
Legacy and Prestige
Owning an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is not just about possessing an incredible timepiece. It’s about owning a piece of watchmaking history. The Royal Oak was a trailblazer in the world of luxury sports watches, and its influence can still be felt today. It’s a design icon, setting the bar for many modern luxury sports watches that followed. While many brands have tried to imitate the Royal Oak’s design, none have been able to replicate its unique blend of refinement and ruggedness.
As I wear the Royal Oak, I can’t help but feel a connection to the brand’s long-standing tradition of excellence. The watch represents the epitome of luxury watchmaking, combining cutting-edge technology with centuries of Swiss watchmaking knowledge. Whether it’s the technical prowess of the movement or the timeless elegance of the design, the Royal Oak is a watch that makes a statement without saying a word.
Price and Value
Audemars Piguet is undoubtedly a luxury brand, and the Royal Oak is priced accordingly. The cost of the Royal Oak is a significant investment, but when you consider the craftsmanship, design, and technical innovation that goes into each piece, it becomes easier to understand why. The Royal Oak is not just a watch—it’s a work of art, and owning one means possessing a symbol of prestige and luxury that transcends time.
Despite its high price tag, the Royal Oak holds its value well. It’s considered a collector’s item and often appreciates in value, especially the more limited and rare editions. While the price may initially seem steep, it’s important to remember that you’re investing in something much more than just a timepiece. You’re investing in history, innovation, and craftsmanship that will remain relevant for generations.
